All posts by Tom

I'm the guy who writes the blog...

Cutting some crud

Growing up, I couldn’t help but notice that my mom kept a fastidiously clean home. I mean, the floors were cleaner than some restaurant plates I have eaten from. Beds were made, everything was dusted and I feared for any dirt that made it into the home.

Mom also had a pair of housekeeping annual events – spring cleaning and fall cleaning. I’m sure most of you know about spring cleaning, but to her, the fall cleaning was even more important. After all, we were about to close the house up for the next six months, so it had better be clean!

No, I'll never keep the shop that cleanWhile our home is kept tidy, Rhonda and I don’t set big annual clean up days. But, in the shop, you bet I do. Fall cleaning is a tradition in my shop, just before I get to the most productive time of the year in my shop. Think about it – all summer, I would drag myself out into the very hot shop, trying to get work done as fast as possible, before the heat gets to me. So, there are some routine maintenance things that I tend to put off in the name of getting the projects done.

But, with the summer heat losing its grip, the time came to do a little work in the shop. Some of the tasks I tackle include treating all of the cast iron tops, cleaning bits and blades and ensuring that everything is organized where it needs to be.

That’s why I was intrigued when my friends at Bora Tools told me about some of their new shop maintenance products and sent me a box to check out.

The cleaning crewI had heard about products like these, but never had the need to pull the trigger. But, with the old beat-up hand planes I have scrubbed clean, the pre-clean degreaser, and the two rust removing products will come in handy the next time I get my hands on one. And, who can’t do with a good blade and bit cleaner?

The honing stuffThey also have some honing products.  The small metal can is honing fluid for oilstones. I do have one with a very fine surface, so I’m looking forward to using this. The larger bottle is an additive to add to water stones and water grinders like my Tormek. I’ll give those babies a shot later.

The protective itemsAnd, once you get everything nice and clean, it’s important to protect those surfaces. The kit contained a wipe-on metal protectant, a container of protective wax and three moisture absorbing disks. These will definitely come in handy.

Spray it onThis weekend, I figured I should start with my table saw. So, I took the splitter, throat plate and blade out. I thoroughly vacuumed the inside of the saw’s body out, and then got to work on the blade. I sprayed the cleaner on to the blade  as it sat on a piece of cardboard. I waited the requisite five minutes, and blammo…

Gunk Be GoneThe blade cleaner worked very well, with the accumulated gunk simply wiped off with no scrubbing. You can see the difference between the leftmost dirty teeth and the rightmost clean ones.

Wipe on anti-rustHere in Florida, we are always dealing with rust. It’s a hazard that comes with living in a subtropical environment. With the saw’s table exposed, I wiped it down with some mineral spirits, which cleaned off the old layer of paste wax I had applied, and then wiped on a coating of the anti-rust product. It made the surface of the saw very slick, and I’m looking forward to more rust-free service from my decade old saw.

IMAG0075While I was at it, I took the opportunity to use the wax product to coat the splitter, fence rails and the body of the rip fence to ensure more effortless gliding. I checked everything after I reinstalled it, and the saw is ready for its next project.

I still have some more cleaning to do around the shop, but I think this was a very important first step in getting the shop ready for the busy fall projects.

 

Quick Poll

They are a relatively new joinery method, invented by the Lamello company in the 1950′s and used extensively in post-war European cabinet shops. It crossed The Pond in the 1970′s and was adopted in North American production shops shortly after.

A biscuit jointAnd, once Norm Abram started using one in the New Yankee Workshop, well, everyone wanted to get their hands on one.

The biscuit – or plate – jointer did speed the process of joining two boards together. Whether connecting two pieces of plywood, solid wood, MDF… or whatever other material you may be working with… the biscuit joint has proven to be a versatile way of connecting boards.

However, joint test data suggests that for nearly all joints, the biscuit is probably one of the weakest joinery methods available. So, this week, how do you feel about the biscuit joint? Super strong and versatile shop hero, or gimmicky joint with little more strength than a butt joint?


Link of the week

The St. Thomas Guild

Want a taste of what woodworking was like in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance? You have found the place.

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The St. Thomas Guild is a blog dedicated to the practice and conservation of woodworking, turning, joinery and other crafts from the Middle Ages. The site features a wide selection of woodworking methods and tools, so you will have a great time exploring all that the site has to offer.

 

Signing the piece

Well, Sydney’s medal and ribbon rack has made it safely across the country, and Kevin is planning on giving it to her this weekend. I can’t wait to see how she reacts when she sees it.

One thing I did before I sent it was ask Kevin if it was OK to sign the piece. I always ask if that would be OK, because I don’t want to presume that customers want me to sign the piece.

In the past, I used to use a branding iron to sign my pieces. That was great, but I always had issues getting a good brand. I never knew when the iron was hot enough to lay in the brand, and I was never comfortable burning a plumber’s torch in my shop.

My trusty Sharpie

The other thing I have done is to just sign the piece with a Sharpie marker. I have written some nice messages to my friends on their pieces, and I always try to put a little flourish on pieces with my name.  Dating the piece is also a great idea, so people will know when things were built.

The bright, shiny pennyOne thing I also discovered a few years ago was a set of coin-sized forstner bits. The penny sized bit looked pretty cool, so I ordered it. And, when I find some bright, shiny pennies from the current year, I put them aside to insert into my projects. I recently got this one in change from the purchase of my lunch, so it was kept aside for the project.

The drill jig setupDrilling the hole was easy with the special jig that the bit came with. It was a simple matter of putting the shaft of the bit through the jig hole, chucking it into the drill and doing the deed. There is no depth stop with the setup, and I know that coins are not very thick, so I went very shallow with the bit at first. I had to deepen it a bit after my first attempt, but it was easy to register the bit with the rim of the hole I had bored.

Getting ready to glueThe result was a nice, clean hole exactly the size of the penny, so I knew I was going to have one shot to get this in. A few drops of CA glue went in first, and then I pushed the penny in, aligning Lincoln’s head with the orientation of the project.

Signed and sealedThere. The penny is in place, my name is signed and the piece is dated. Hopefully, she will like the final result!

 

Eureka

There was this guy back in ancient Greece. He was pretty smart. His name was Archimedes, and he created a bunch of things. The Archimedes screw. He was able to describe how a lever worked in great detail. He even supposedly invented a ‘heat ray’ that focused reflected sun rays on to attacking ships, supposedly setting them on fire.

Eureka!But, the biggest thing he did was figure out the Archimedes Principle. This describes how to measure the mass of an object by measuring how much water it displaced. Faced with trying to find a way to determine if a crown was made of pure gold or something a little less valuable, he thought he would soak in a tub to think about it. As he slipped in the water, he noticed that the level of water in the tub rose. The synapses fired, and, “EUREKA!” Which is exactly what he was reported to say as he leaped out of the tub and raced outside to announce to the world his discovery. In the buff. That must have been an exciting day for Archimedes – and the rest of the folks out on the street.

Lock Miter BitWhile I didn’t discover something as important as that, I did have my very own fully-clothed eureka moment in my shop.  It involved my nemesis, the lock miter bit. Yes, the same bit that caused me to swear it off years ago. However, the folks over at Infinity Cutting Tools told me that they had the answer to my problem, and that I should give it a try.

The lock miter master jigThis is the tool, the Lock Miter Master Jig. It’s a piece of aluminum with a pair of rare-earth magnets that attach to the bit. The fun part is that when it is registered, the long tick marks point to the exact center of the bit profile. By adjusting the bit to these marks, it becomes easy to get a good result using the bit.

Find that centerThis, of course necessitates finding the exact center of your board. Those set up blocks that most bits come with are great – if your wood is exactly that thickness. Free from set board thicknesses, heck, anything’s possible. I use a center finding ruler to get things lined up properly, but you should be able to do that without one. Use the center line on the board to set the height of the bit, and then the fence depth, ensuring it is centered on the board.

Push sticksNow, one of the most important parts of this set up is to use featherboards and push blocks. Seriously. This is a big bit that removes a lot of stock in one pass, so everything you can do to keep positive control on the work is going to make it a safer and more accurate operation.

Close the gapAnother important step is to close the gap on the fence as much as possible. This helps to keep the possibility of things going wrong to a minimum.

Ooops...Now, I’m sure the folks at Infinity aren’t happy that I showed this shot, but this jig is not foolproof. I am a much better fool than they could have anticipated. The reason I show this is that you have to ensure during your measurements that the jig is perpendicular to the fence when you measure the center of the board. If not, yes, it is still possible to make a big boo-boo…

Getting betterThere, that’s much better. Not perfect, but hey, for a second pass in a hot, sweaty Sunday in the shop, that’s much better than I had done after HOURS of working the old way. Just a few more tweaks, and I’m sure I’ll be looking at perfect joint after perfect joint.

Eureka!

Quick Poll

While frameless (European) cabinet construction is growing in popularity, the face frame cabinet is still a popular building method.

While it does take some extra time and involves extra material, the face frame offers extra strength to the assembly, can be used to square a cabinet, allows an easy way to scribe a cabinet to fit a wall and can be decorative to boot.

There are many methods woodworkers can use to join the elements of the face frame together.  Some are traditional, others are ultra modern.  Some take very little time, others can be quite time consuming.

So, this week, I want to know if you build cabinets with face frames, and just how you join the elements together…