The router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop.  Edge jointing, profiling, joint cutting, pattern cutting… you name it, and the router is up  to the task.

In my shop, I have two routers or, more accurately, two router set ups I use.

My first router is the DeWalt 618 three-base kit.  The motor swaps between three bases - a plunge, a fixed and a D-handle.  I bought this kit with the intention of mounting the fixed base in a router table and using the plunge and D-handle for handheld work.  The motor moves easily between bases, has a soft start, can accept both 1/2″ and 1/4″ shank bits and is a real pleasure to use.  I like how low the center of gravity is on the router, and the D-handle is a joy to use, giving me more control - especially on the edges of projects.

The other router is permanently fixed on a Rousseau router plate.  It’s a used Freud FT2000E plunge router I bought used.  I took the handles off and the springs out of the plunge base to make getting the router into a table and adjusting bit height easy. One day, I do want to get a method of  raising the router from above the table.  This muscular router is what I turn to for the heavy duty jobs.

There are hundreds of ways to make woodworking joints.  That’s part of the reason I love woodworking so much. Regardless of your skill level, amount of tooling or where you work, you can cut a joint that can far outlive the wood the project is made out of.

That being said, many of the joints to choose from out there are simple variations of a similar  joinery methods.  Pocket screws are simply screws driven from different directions. The Festool Domino is a variation of the venerable mortise and tenon.

One interesting joint that invites a number of variations is the dovetail.  From the basic hand cut through-dovetail, a great number of variations have sprung up over the years.  Half-blind dovetails, machine cut dovetails in a wide and growing variety of flavors - and my most recent discovery, a jig system that creates what is called tapered dovetail splines.

While traditional splines are typically cut with a sled on a router table, that method involves building an extremely precise sled first, then carefully marking and ensuring that the splines line up accurately - especially going from corner to corner. A tolerance of 1/32” is unacceptable because a gap even that small shows up like a pencil line you apply the finish.  And of course you have the tedious and difficult operation of cutting the splines themselves . . .

While doing my interview with John Lucas, I stumbled across the Kehoe Jig, an innovative system that enables you to cut these joints faster, tighter and stronger.

The “system” actually consists of three jigs. The main jig itself, which is used in tandem with a router to cut the spline grooves into the workpiece with a perfect one degree taper, and the Spline-making jig, used on the table saw to cut splines using whatever species of wood you choose. This jig also the matching one degree taper incorporated into it so that the splines will fit tightly into the grooves. The third jig is called the Corner Inlayer. It is also used with your router, and allows you to cut a perfect “mini-dado” of whatever width and depth you choose, but at an angle exactly perpendicular to the corner itself, versus from one of the flat sides of the workpiece. This jig is normally optional, but right now they are running an online special that includes this jig at no additional charge.

The Kehoe Jig was invented by Larry Kehoe out of one part necessity, and one part frustration.  According to Kevin Jaynes, owners of the company, ” . . . . while in the middle of building an oak desk, he was dreading hauling out his dovetail jig to build the drawers because he had never found a dovetail jig that was not slow and cumbersome, and he hated test cuts. As he was walking across the basement shop floor with the traditional dovetail jig in his hands, he had one of those “Flash Of Genius” moments where he actually saw the jig in his minds eye; the jig that would eventually become the Kehoe Dovetail Spline Jig. Larry told me he had seen it ‘in remarkable detail, especially the taper.”

From that first flash of inspiration, Larry perfected it over the first couple of years by tweaking the design. He made dozens of improvements, and even different types of jigs.  In effect, the splines slip in loosely to start with, but quickly tighten as they are tapped home, creating a joint that’s beautiful as well as strong.

While the joint is similar in many ways to traditional dovetails -and creates a strong joint - the beauty of it is that the Kehoe Jig can be used in boxes made of materials such as plywood - since the cutting of the spline grooves doesn’t expose the material’s end grain.

Another strength of the jig - as well as this technique in general  is that you can add splines in contrasting woods that can serve as a design feature.  According to Kevin, “It is not unusual to have your woodworking friends look at the work piece, turning it over and over in their hands and then accuse you of painting them on.”

Kevin is actually the co-owner of the company with his wife Terry.  Mr. Kehoe passed away in 2007,  “I got a call from Elizabeth (Mrs. Kehoe) one cool April day and she gave me the sad news that Larry had passed away. I had expressed an interest in the company a couple of times over the preceding years, in case they ever decided to retire. It was not so much a source of income for them as it was a hobby. Many others had also expressed the same interest over the years, but to make a long story short, she and Larry had decided I would be the best bet to ‘Keep Larry’s baby alive.’ We could never had gotten it back off the ground without Mrs. Kehoe’s knowledge and unselfish help. We consider it a privilege to be the caretakers of this business. ”

Today, the Kehoe Jig continues to be a useful and interesting jig with an even brighter future. Kevin and Terry have already made three prototypes of variations of the jig, and are about a month away from releasing the first one. “It’s along the same lines, but cut’s smaller splines in a pattern closer together. Perfect for the smaller jewelry boxes, small drawers, and small humidors like many of our customers make. The current jig does this as well, but this one will just make it all the faster and easier. We also have a 28” coming right on the heels of that for larger projects.”

This may well be the first time you have heard of the jig, but if Kevin and Terry have their way it won’t be the last. “Larry was a genius tinkerer and inventor, but he hated marketing and selling. He hardly ever advertised it. What he enjoyed most was going to 2 or 3 wood shows a year and just taking orders. He liked meeting people and talking about his jig. We are trying to bring Larry’s ingenious invention to the world, and with the help of happy customers and woodworking sites, we are starting to make a dent.”

Besides looking like an interesting jig to cut dovetails with, the story of Kevin and Terry has captured my attention.  “We’re one of those rare American mom-n-pop shop manufacturers that are still making a go at it. We are making some dramatic improvements in the jig kit, and are also committed to keeping the manufacturing 100% within our borders. We are woodworkers ourselves and have dealt with many online suppliers over the years. It has been our experience overall, that most woodworking supply and tool companies have excellent customer satisfaction. Customer satisfaction is our first priority as well, because we believe that’s the foundation of any business.”

I think I’m going to have to give this jig a shot and tell you my impressions…

There are just some times when the best tool for the job is a well-sharpened wood chisel. Whether cutting a joint, trimming a plug or doing any number of other tasks, these descendants of some of the most ancient woodworking tools can be some of the most versatile multitaskers in the shop.

Here’s my collection, spread out for your viewing pleasure. From the waaay back row:

A 2 1/2″ slick. This was an eBay score. The iron was found in a barn in upstate New York, so I had to fit a handle to it. I made this one out of maple in the shop. Once I figured out how to sharpen it the right way (It’s enormous), it can pare very fine shavings off of even the trickiest boards.

The middle pack, from left to right, includes:

A set of Pinnacle chisels from 1/4″ to 1 1/2″. I traded a drill press mortising attachment for these beauties. The handles are very comfortable, and I’m in the process of getting them honed for regular use. The only knock is that they are a little narrower than advertised… not critical unless I’m cutting joints.

A set of Marples Blue Chip chisels from 1/4″ to 1″. These are my work horses in the shop - the ones I reach for first. Got the 1″, 3/4″ and 1/2″ ones as a set, then added on the 3/8″ and 1/4″ later to round out the set.

The two on the extreme left of that middle row are a pair of ‘pound puppies’ I found at eBay. Dirt cheap, they are two old Buck Brothers chisels - 1 1/2″ and 1 1/4″ size. I sharpened them, and they work very well.

In the front row from left to right, I’ll start with the three Lee Valley Crank Neck chisels. Sometimes, you need that little offset bend to get a little bit of glue out of a corner. These chisels fill the bill. They are kinda small, but they work well. I have a left and right skew, as well as a square nosed one.

The middle chisels are my pride and joy. These are a set of Japanese chisels I got from a friend. They belonged to his dad, a respected architect in Osaka, Japan, and my buddy was keeping them in an old coffee can in his garage. I have them honed razor sharp, and use them for light chopping and some paring work.

The last two chisels were given to me as a birthday gift. They are a pair of right and left skew chisels from Lee Valley. For those really odd jobs, they work out well. I’m sure I’ll end up using them more and more as I continue to build.

Sure, they don’t have power cords or spinning blades. But, you’d be surprised how many injuries hand tools can cause.

Some of them - well - are pretty gruesome. I remember reading about a woodworker who had purchased a fine set of chisels at a hefty price. He was working on chopping some waste out of handcut dovetails, when a chisel started to roll off his bench. His reaction was to try to snatch the chisel out of the air when it started to fall…

Well, he grabbed the sharp end, and needed several stitches in his hand to close the wound.

The truth is that hand tools such as chisels, slicks, draw knives, spokeshaves all have the potential to bite. The real danger comes when you slip with the tool and a part of your body is in the line of fire. That blade coming at you quickly can do some serious damage.

What are some of the common sense hand tool safety tips? Well:

• Keep ‘em sharp. Dull tools need more force to work, and their dull tips can slide off wood before they dig in to get a bite. Keep the tools sharp and honed, and they’ll perform much better.
• Use the right tool for the job. Trying to chop mortises with a paring chisel is a bad idea. The shallow bevel that’s perfect for slicing wood is terrible for chopping. The steel could break, sending shards in many direction.
• Secure the work. Hey, if you want to learn the hard way that pushing a plane against an unsecured piece of work invites slipping, be my guest. You won’t like the results…
• Watch your body. Think before you cut. Is any part of your body in the line of fire if the blade slips? I once shaved a nice slice of meat from my thumb because it was in the way of a spokeshave blade. That sucker stung for a few days.
• Think before you work. ‘Nuff said.

Similar safety tips go for hammers and mallets (don’t whack your fingers), pinching tools (pliers, etc.), screwdrivers and other hand tools. Just a few minutes thinking about safety can keep your hand tool woodworking a lot more fun.

Oh, and it’s hard to get blood stains off a piece of maple. Just a little FYI.

When it comes to working on my projects, I always seem to find myself reaching for a hand plane. Whether to flatten a board, true an edge or plane a bevel, my planes give me total control over whatever wood I am working with.

Since I’ve written a lot about my hand planes, it’s only fair that I show you the family photo so you see which ones I use.

Across the back row from left to right, I have:

• A Veritas bevel up jointer plane. This baby gets the most work by far when I’m in the shop, especially when I’m making boards square and flat.
• A Union No. 28 transitional fore plane. This plane dates back to the mid 1890’s and I love it. The beech sole rides beautifully over whatever wood I’m planing. I have this plane set up almost like a scrub plane, and it takes pretty thick shavings as I level out the boards.
• A Stanley Bailey No. 5 jack plane. This one dates back to the early 1900’s, and I replaced the iron with a Lee Valley O1 model. This plane is great to work with, giving me consistent results whenever I need to reach for it.
• A Stanley Bailey No. 4 smoother plane. I got this one from a friend who bought a ‘bag o’ planes’ for me at a flea market for $10. Another plane I fitted with a Lee Valley replacement iron. This plane has pushed sandpaper down the importance list and really made finishing projects a whole lot more fun.

On the left side, from back to front:

• A newer Stanley block plane. This was my first real block plane, and it works really well.
• An older Stanley low-angle block plane. This honey is a gem. The low-angle action slices through end grain like nobody’s business.
• Older Staney No. 100 block plane. A relatively new acquisition that I’m growing to love more every time I use it.
• Veritas Flush Plane. Wow, an interesting tool that can handle all manner of tasks. Got some glue stuck in an inside corner? This baby can clean it out with no problem.

In the middle row from back to front:

• Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper. OK, it’s not technically a plane, but it does the work a scraper plane could do. It took some time to properly sharpen and adjust this one, but it’s really nice that it works now!
• Kakuri Japanese smooth plane. This plane is a champ. It doesn’t have an adjustment mechanism - you use a mallet. Properly set (it takes some practice), I can plane translucent shavings from a board, leaving an an absolutely smooth surface. You pull this plane toward you - different feel, but boy, does it ever work.
• Stanley No. 92 Spoke Shave: Again, not technically a plane, but until I can buy a compass plane, this tool is the one I reach for when I fair up curves. Spokeshaves have very small blades - sharpen with care!

And, the right side from back to front:

• A Lu Ban Asian-style shoulder plane. Another wood plane that takes some time and care to set, but once it’s in the sweet zone, it’s all butter. I routinely cut my rabbets a little thicker than needed and use this plane to make a perfect fit.
• A Veritas bullnose plane. A great value from Veritas. This plane can function as a small shoulder plane (I wouldn’t do a lot of work with it), and the nose comes off for the work as a chisel plane. Again, great for reaching into those corners.
• Another old Stanley No. 100 block plane. Again, a nice plane to work with.

Over the next few months, I’ll keep on doing how-to articles on working with these planes to achieve excellent results on your projects. Until then, hey, since I have the planes on my workbench, maybe I should give them a good cleaning and hone the blades!

So, last time I showed how I face plane using hand planes. Now, we move over to the edge of the board. Believe it or not, this is actually easier to do than face planing… No, really, it is.

(Click on images for larger versions) First thing you have to do is secure your board to your bench. You can do that with a regular woodworking vise and a special ‘appliance’ you build to hold the wood. Mine is made of two pieces of southern yellow pine dovetailed together (it’s a VERY rough dovetail…) with holes for some inexpensive hold-down clamps. This is the end of the board that doesn’t fit into the vise.

Can you use two face vises? I don’t see why not… but the one to the right (for right handers) is not going to get a lot of use in a traditional set up… this appliance can be removed when not in use… and it costs a whole lot less!

This is what your wood should look like when you get it all set in the vise and appliance. In this arrangement, there is little - if any - chance the board will slip. That is essential when you plane - you want the wood to stay still while you move the tool.

Once it’s locked in, sight down the length of the board. Get as close as you can to the edge and squint, looking with one eye to see if there is a crown or dip in the board. If you notice high spots, mark them in chalk or with a pencil so you will know where to do the first work.

The next thing I do is take out my old No. 32 transitional fore plane set for a heavy cut. I want to get those high areas out of the way quickly and get that edge as straight as possible. This task can also be done with a No. 5 jack plane with a metal sole. I just prefer the wooden soled plane because I think it slides more nicely on the wooden edge. As you can see, the shavings aren’t curls… they are much more like wood chips. I’m not going for finesse here, I’m roughing in.

From there, I get out my trusty Veritas bevel-up jointer plane. Yes, I bought a newly minted plane instead of finding a quality used one. I haven’t had much luck finding a complete No. 7 Stanley jointer - most of the ones I have purchased had ‘issues’ that were beyond my abilities to repair. Since my shop is relatively crowded, and the plane was less expensive than a powered jointer, I figured I would spend the money I was saving for a powered model on this beautiful tool.

I also bought the 90 degree fence for the plane. True, if I was edge jointing two boards for a glue up, I could plane them both side by side in the vise, with any variations in angles canceling each other out. But, I have found that true, crisp 90 degree angles glue together more nicely. That’s my experience - of course, your mileage may vary.

The technique is very simple. When you start planing, push down hard on the front knob while you push the plane along. Once the plane is completely on the board, push down evenly as the plane glides along. When you get to the end, relax your pushing down on the front knob and bear down on the tote (the back handle). Think about scooping up a bucket of water. Practice, practice, practice and it will come easily.

As you can see, the are the nice, board-length curls you come to expect from a hand plane. When I get to the jointer, that’s when I want to make the cuts a lot finer to refine the edge of the board.

The real test comes when you run a square along the edge to confirm you have planed at 90 degrees, and you remove the board from the vise and appliance and lay it down on the bench top. You should not be able to see any light passing under the board.

Total time to edge a board? I dunno - three to four minutes. No snipe. No screaming motor. No chance of losing fingers or the board exploding if a jointer knife snags a knot. There’s a lot to be said about those hand planes!

Patrick’s Blood and Gore Page

Sure, it sounds like a page where people might talk about gruesome murders or the latest shoot-em-up video game, but this is actually one of the best resources for Stanley hand plane information on the Internet.

Patrick Leach of the Superior Tool Works assembled this virtual library of information on the hundreds of different styles of hand planes build by Stanley Tools from the mid 1800s through the 1960s.

Leach concentrates his efforts primarily on the Bailey and Bedrock offerings, not delving too deeply into the lesser-quality lines such as Handyman.

While his style is pretty tongue-in-cheek, and he does lean heavily toward offering his own personal opinions (especially when it comes to the transitional offerings from New Britain) there is no doubting that he has done his research. Sole lengths, blade widths, special features and the like are all offered in meticulous detail. If you are looking for a new hand plane, this site is a must see.