Category Archives: Projects

Building can be child’s play

Happy Babies love woodworking toys!If you haven’t been the parent of a newborn child in the past decade or so, wow, have you missed out on an interesting change in attitudes. In the good old days, my mom can relate stories of drinking blackberry brandy to calm her heartburn when she was pregnant with me. I’ve read accounts of people who can recall shooting .22 rifles at the age of five with minimal supervision. When a tyke bumped her head and fell down, she got a hug, an ice pack for the sore area and a sucker to keep her mind off the ache for a while.

Today, there is an incredible amount of deeply concerning information being given to new parents, and you can’t blame them if the new mom and dad are a little apprehensive about certain things you might consider silly. After all, some websites are attempting to link immunizations against deadly childhood illnesses with the onset of autism. A friend of ours who was expecting her first flatly refused to eat a glazed carrot dish that had a tablespoon of bourbon in the recipe for fear of causing fetal alcohol syndrome in her unborn child. Devices which monitor the breathing patterns of newborns  as they sleep – and send alerts via pager to the parents if those patterns change – are now common baby shower gifts.

This extreme awareness of potential threats to the safety and well-being of newborns, babies and toddlers has a ripple effect that can be felt even into woodworking. Let’s face it, when we hear the news of a new child on the way, most woodworkers’ thoughts turn to hand-crafted cradles and keepsake boxes to mark this monumental occasion. For older infants, cribs, changing tables, play blocks and pull toys seem like appropriate gifts. And, what toddler’s eyes wouldn’t light up when given their very own wooden rocking horse or wagon?

For many woodworkers out there, they are exceptionally aware of the safety concerns while building gifts for their own children. For others who don’t have their own children or those who may be a little out of practice in raising infants, this may be their first attempt to build something age-appropriate for a little one in today’s climate. While their hearts are in the right place, building toys that are both safe for youngsters and put their parents’ minds at ease can prove to be a challenge. Fortunately, the United States Consumer Products Safety Commission has some great information providing clear guidelines to ensure that what you build will be as safe as possible.

Here are some tips to keep in mind when planning to build a project for a little one:

*Safety first. When looking the plans for the project you are building, always build safety into the project. For instance, there are a number of inexpensive soft-down lid closures out there which will prevent toy box lids from smashing down on vulnerable fingers. While this hardware may add to the cost of your project, the piece of mind they provide is invaluable. The same goes for safety straps on things like high chairs and changing tables. Having engaged in hand-to-hand combat while feeding and changing my two sons, I can tell you that safety straps have prevented several mishaps during the boys’ fussier moments.

Kids love to roll wagonsAnother area of concern is items that fold. If you build a small reading chair or artist’s easel that folds, understand that the hinged areas are potential pinch points. Sure, mom and dad should be supervising closely, but building safety into a design helps to reduce the likelihood that something will go wrong.

Something else often overlooked are the rockers on a chair or other rocking toy. I had built a rocking horse for my son with gracefully fully arching rockers. The horse looked beautiful, but my energetic one-year-old managed to pull back on the reins and flip the horse backwards. On later versions I built, I added either a recurve or a knob at the rocker’s back end to prevent this from happening.

* Build the right size. If you have ever watched babies discover the world, you’ll notice that if they can grab it, it gets put right in their little mouths and gummed like crazy.

Kids chew on toysIt may seem like a strange reaction, but they are actually learning what things taste like and how things feel. Given this fact, building projects for little ones involves making projects large enough to not become a choking hazard. The best way to ensure you are building something large enough is to try to fit individual piece of a toy through the cardboard core of a roll of bathroom tissue.  If it fits, the piece is too small and can become a danger.

If the toy has pieces attached to it – something like a toy truck’s wheels –  be sure to check those wheels for size as well, since they could become detached during rough play.  At less than a year old, babies don’t have very fine motor skills and can’t manipulate small items easily. Larger, chunkier toys than can be grabbed in a fist are much better options for play – and safety – for this age group.

* Mind the gaps. Another issue to consider, especially if you are building something like a crib, is that children can get their heads, arms or legs stuck between slats or bars. Many older cribs have bars that are too far apart to be safe.  This warning also applies older crib woodworking plans. In proper slat spacing, a can of soda shouldn’t be able to fit between the slats. If you are working from an older plan, adjust the spacing accordingly to meet these guidelines, and you may also need to make the rails narrower to preserve the look of the piece.

Another concern about cribs is how high any corner posts rise above rails. While it has not happened often, a few cases of children being strangulated have occurred when something they are wearing gets hooked over a tall corner post. Your best bet is to not have any corner posts rise more than ¼” above the top rails. Even better is to build a top rail that covers all slats and posts, leaving no protrusions at all.

Before you build a crib or a cradle, be sure to get an exact measurement of the mattress or pad you will be using. The mattress should fit snugly in the crib to prevent children from being trapped in the gap between a too large crib and a too small mattress.

* Finish for safety. It goes without saying that thoroughly sanding any wooden projects is a critical step when building for children. Small hands and tongues can easily get splinters from improperly sanded surfaces. You will also want to round over, chamfer or break all edges of your project with sandpaper to improve the comfort and safety for the little ones.

LullabyNearly all common wood finishes – after they are given sufficient time to cure properly – are non-toxic. It’s the solvents that carry the finish that typically pose the health threat. So, if you are building something like a cradle for the newborn to sleep in, be sure to finish the project well in advance to allow proper curing time. A good way to check for proper curing is to press your nose to the project and take a deep sniff. If you can no longer smell the finish, that indicates that it has cured properly and is now safe for use.

For projects destined to be handled – and gnawed on – by curious babies, a shellac finish is a very good option. Shellac is commonly used in the food and pharmaceuticals industry to put a shiny surface on pills and candies. Since it’s safe to consume, mom and dad will have less to worry about when giving the toy to their child to play with.

* Think about alternatives. If building kid-friendly sounds like too great of a challenge or the parents of the little one you are building for are the highly-concerned type, you might be better off building a project that the child won’t handle on a day-to-day basis or one that they can use when they get much older. A shelf to hold future Little League baseball trophies, a music box for the most beautiful and graceful ballerina or a shadow box for mom and dad to proudly display the keepsakes of those first few days together as a newly-expanded family are just some great projects that will be appreciated for years to come.

Remember, you are building this gift out of love, caring and celebration for the arrival of a new family member. By following some simple common-sense guidelines, the beautifully hand-crafted piece you build will show just how much you care. In future years, you might be surprised to find that the gift you build may become a precious family heirloom passed to future generations.

Stuff I’ve Built: The low Craftsman-style entertainment credenza

December, 2004

    The low entertainment credenzaThis is the project that made me a ‘made man,’ according to some folks over at the Woodworkers’ Website Association. This was my first big commission, and it fell into my lap.  Looking back, however, I can see so many better ways I could have built it.  Different construction methods.  Different materials. Ultimately, the customer was happy, and that’s all that mattered!

    It all started when I was shopping for a desk for my oldest son, who was in first grade at the time.  My wife and I went to the nearest unfinished furniture store to look for something, and boy, was I dismayed.  Everything was made out of pine, and the joinery methods left something to be desired.  Of course, I exclaimed several times, “I could build something better than this for less money!”

    After my third pronouncement, a gentleman tapped me on the shoulder.  At first, I thought I was busted by the store staff for scaring off customers, but it was another customer who asked if I was a woodworker.  After telling him yes, he asked me to look at something for him.  He wanted a low oak credenza-style entertainment center for his big screen TV, and all the store had was a short pine unit.  “Can you build something like this?” he asked as he pulled out a drawing of a Craftsman style unit.

    Sure I could.

    Before we agreed on a price, we exchanged info and I said I would draw up a plan.  Once I e-mailed a drawing and told him of the construction details, he gave me the go ahead, and I agreed to build the piece for a $1,000 commission.  I asked for half the funds up front to buy materials, and was off to the races.

    Now, I have to confess, at this time, I had never built anything like this. There were many firsts for me.  My first glass doors.  My first inset doors.  My first big casework.

    The cabinet is built frame and stile with 1/4″ oak plywood panels.  The door on the left had shelves for storage, and the door on the right had two pull-out trays for DVD storage and the like.  The center doors had shelves for electronic components.

    I went to a local stained glass shop and had the owner inset the glass for the two doors.  It was an antique-style seedy glass, which lent some character to the piece.  The wooden grille on the front was made of half-lapped oak pieces glued together and inserted as a tight friction fit with clear silicone adhesive caulk on the back to help stick it in place.

    The top is a solid piece of 6/4 oak I sanded the heck out of.  Sure, I didn’t have to build it like that, but I didn’t know any better.

    I finished the piece with Watco dark walnut danish oil to give the darker Mission-style finish to the piece, and topcoated the top with two coats of wipe-on poly to give it more durability.  The hardware was from the Craftsman collection over at Lee Valley.

    When it was ready, I gave the gentleman a call and asked him to bring a truck and three of his biggest friends – once the piece was assembled on my bench, I wasn’t about to move it.

    The reaction when he saw it was priceless.  I opened the garage door, and he and his three buddies said, “Woah.”  They rubbed their hands over it like the monkeys did to the monolith in 2001:  A Space Odyssey.

    The owner took a shot of it with his cell phone and sent it to his wife.  Within a minute, she called back and said, “I love it!  Tell Joe to ride in the back of the truck with it and make sure NOTHING happens to it!”

    With a little grunting and groaning, the four gents were able to hoist the piece into the back of the truck, and the guy’s poor friend Joe had to ride in the bed of the truck on a chilly night with the piece until it was delivered.

    Every so often, I think back to building that piece and wonder how I managed to build it.  However, it was an experience I will never trade.  My first real commission!

    Great Jigs: The Four-Faced Tenon Jig

    There is little doubt that the mortise and tenon joint is one of the most important in woodworking. It’s incredibly stout and can be found in many different projects as an essential piece of joinery.

    While cutting the mortise has its own challenges, cutting tenons can be even more difficult.  First of all, the tenon has to have very smooth faces and square shoulders. Then, you have to make sure you have the length of the tenon exact.  Finally, how do you cut these tenons on long pieces without creating a dangerous situation?

    I’ve cut tenons several ways in the past – on a table saw, on the band saw, with hand tools. All did a fair job, but I may have hit on the solution I will be able to use more often than not.

    While building my bench, I had to cut tenons on the end of the long side rails.  I wasn’t looking forward to trying to balance these standing on end on my table saw, and trying to push them flat on the table while keeping them square to the blade could prove challenging.

    The Tenoning JigThat’s when I went to my bookshelf and came out with Pat Warner’s book Easy, Fast and Accurate Router Jigs.  There, I found the plan to build this.

    The jig is insanely simple, yet yields such incredible results.  It consists of a top and a vertical fin – both made out of scraps (11″ x 17″) of cabinet grade plywood.  The top has a window cut in the middle about 4″ x 9″, and a rectangular cutout roughly the same size in the fin.  This assembly has to be square and tough, so I dadoed the fin into the top and screwed it.  I also used some glue blocks on the back side of the assembly to further reinforce the joint.

    The next piece is a fence.  I used a 2×4 and notched it so the fence would protrude into the opening but not block the routing action.  Again, make sure this is perfectly perpendicular to the top, or you won’t like the results.

    The board ready to cutI screwed a toggle clamp to the fence, which holds the jig to the board I’m routing.  However, I also throw a second clamp on the board, just to make sure the workpiece doesn’t move at all.

    Now, clamp the board you want to tenon to the jig firmly against the fence.  Set the top of the board slightly below the top of the jig – you can use a coin under the straight edge to set the depth.

    Next, put a rabbeting bit into your router.  The depth of the rabbet will help determine the width of your tenon.  For this example, I put a 1/4″ deep cutting rabbet bit to use on a board with a width of 3/4″.  This will leave me with a 1/4″ thick tenon 1/2″ shorter than the height of the board.  If I wanted a 3/8″ wide tenon, I would use a rabbeting bit that cut 3/16″ deep.

    The router base and rabbeting bitSet the length of the tenon by adjusting the depth of the bit below the router base.  I’ve measured on my Freud router and found I could push the bit to cut a maximum of 1 1/4″ below the base – a decent sized tenon.  If you need to extend the length of the tenon, you can use a top-bearing flush trim bit that can reach even further down the board after the initial rabbet cut.

    Another key component of this jig is to use a larger than normal base to ensure the router doesn’t fall into the jig.  Here, you can see I’m using a Turn Lock offset router base to ensure that the router stays firmly in contact with the top of the jig during the cut.  You could use an offset base such as this or even build a ‘ski’ type base made of plywood to get the necessary width.

    The final tenonNext, you simply rout around all four sides of the board.  The result is extremely impressive – a very crisp, square-cornered tenon that came out exactly to 1/4″ wide on this test board.  It takes just seconds to cut this, and you never have to change the setup.  So, in effect, you can cut dozens of identical tenons one after another in very short order.

    And, what about really long boards that need to be tenoned?  Well, you could clamp the work vertically in a vise and climb a ladder, but the beauty of this jig is that you can actually clamp the board on an angle in your vise.  Put one edge on the ground and tip the rail over until the end is at a comfortable height for you to work.  Put the jig on the board with the fence to the top of the work and clamp it in place.  Sure, you’ll be working with your router at an angle, but I had no trouble with this setup as long as I kept the router pressed firmly against the top of the jig.

    If you cut your mortise with a router bit, you will have to round the corners of the tenon.  I did this on the rail tenons for my new bench by carefully paring back with a sharp chisel and then sanding the corners perfectly round to fit the radius.

    Even after cutting just a few tenons with this jig, I know I’m going to be using it again and again to cut tenons.

    Stuff I’ve built: my new workbench

    • January, 2009

    Janus, the Roman god of doorways and guy the month of January was named afterThere’s nothing like the first few days of a new year.  All of the new calendars are out for display.  All of the tragedies and triumphs of the previous year are tucked away into memory and the new year is a fresh slate.

    No wonder why the month January is named after the Roman god Janus – the two-faced god of doorways, as well as beginnings and endings, who looked backward and forward at the same time.

    This year, I’m looking forward to working with my latest project – a new workbench.

    Oh, sure, a year ago I was extolling the virtues of Big Ugly, my solid core door on a 2×4 base that graced the center of my shop.  I built so many projects on that bench, and it served me well for more than four years.

    The new benchHowever, it’s shortcomings were becoming more apparent every time I used it.  First of all, it was very rickety.  I would hand plane on the bench, and it would rack, wasting most of my energy.  It was also way too light for the kind of work  I was doing.  That was shown dramatically when I was trying to plane some maple for a recent project.  For every stroke on the board, the bench actually rotated a few degrees.  By the time I got the board planed, the bench was at a 45 degree angle to where I began.  The time had finally come.

    This bench is a model built with elements of a few different plans.  The base came from the Shop Notes Heavy Duty Workbench plan. It’s a glue up of two 3″ wide boards ripped from a 2×12 southern yellow pine.  The insert is MDF glued in place, locking the legs together into a pretty rugged – and heavy – assembly.

    The two rails are SYP, and are mortised in place and held with a set of Veritas bench bolts.  One word of caution – drill bits have this tendency to wander when you drill – so I did have to enlarge the holes for the cross dowel slightly. Even with that slight sidetrack, the base bolted together and is extremely sturdy.

    The result is a very heavy, rock solid base that is also longer than the base on Big Ugly.  Not only does that provide more support at the edges of the bench, it also allows me to store more power tools under the bench.  The result is even more weight and more free space on my other tool storage shelves.

    The bench edge onThe top is a hybrid construction.  I wanted the strength of natural wood for the dog holes, yet I also wanted a dead flat surface that I could replace if it ever got beat up.  The core of this – going back to our friend Janus – is a solid core door my neighbor salvaged from a dumpster.  It had some surface damage, but was sound for my purpose.  I cut it to a width of 27″ and routed a groove in the side to accept a spline.

    From there, I mounted and trimmed a piece of MDF to fit the top.  Again, more weight and, if it ever got too beat up, I could replace it.

    The sides are made out of three pieces of SYP ripped from larger dimesional lumber.  Each assembly is 3″ thick by 4.5″ wide – giving my bench a final width of 36″ – plenty big for use as a bench and outfeed table for my table saw.  I routed a mating groove on these pieces and glued them to the solid core door, but not the MDF. Again, this makes replacing the MDF easy should it get dinged up.

    Covered for paint projectsFrom there, I bored the 3/4″ dog holes four inches on center so I could use my Veritas wonder pups as a tail vise and bolted my old Wilton vise to the bench.

    I finished the bench with two coats of thinned polyurethane and a final coat of furniture wax.  Hopefully, this will help keep glue drips from sticking to the bench during those big glue ups.

    And, finally, the most important piece I included on this bench is a heavy canvas drop cloth.  This way, whenever anything needs to be painted or finished, I can put the drop cloth down and save the top from the humiliation of being coated in paint.

    So far, I have done some planing on the bench, and the improvement is dramatic.  The bench doesn’t even shimmy when I lean into the planing – a very promising sign of what can be done now.

    As far as Big Ugly, well, I can’t let the old girl go without a final tribute.  I am now making calls to some charities to see if anyone wants it as a work table.  If not, I’ll cut the top into a few pieces to preserve her memory, and burn the legs in a fire on a cool night.

    Stuff I’ve built: Christmas Gifts for 2008


    The Christmas GiftsI FINALLY got them done!

    With Christmas – and the corresponding drop-dead postal service holiday mailing schedule – breathing down my neck, I finally managed to complete my hand made gifts for this year’s festivities…

    Now, of course, I have to post the standard disclaimer – if you are one of my relatives and you are reading this post, please avert your eyes from the photo to the immediate left.  You MIGHT be receiving one of these in the next week or so.

    I chose to go with some simple plans straight out of Wood magazine.  In the back row are two sets of picture frame bookends.  One set’s frames are made with zebrawood and the other’s are made of sapele.  Both of the uprights are made of maple.  Since this photo was taken last Friday, I have also finished another set with sapele frames and red oak uprights.  The frames are sized to hold a portrait 4 x 6 photo in a slip-in acrylic photo frame.  We found those at a local Target store, and they fit perfectly. I love using up those shop scraps on these small projects.

    In the front row, you can see some of the end-grain cutting boards I cranked out.  These were some fun projects to build, again, because I had the opportunity to use more of those beloved shop scraps.  The woods in these babies are maple, cherry and walnut, and it was glued up with Titebond 3 for its water-resistant properties.  While they came out looking great, I discovered that I really need to improve my sawing and glue up technique.  For some reason, the blocks I cut and started to glue up for the final assembly were not a consistent thickness (operator error, without a doubt).  So, I had to spend quite a bit of time with the belt sander to grind them down nice and smooth.  Hey, that only took a day or so.

    I finished them with the technique Marc Spagnuolo uses – thinned polyurethane.   The boards readily soaked up the thinned finish, and a final sanding with 220 on my random orbit sander gave them a very slick and smooth surface.

    Finally, I can check that big to-do off my list and get busy with my son’s desk I promised… and the new workbench I have to build… and…well, I guess I’m booked through next Christmas!

    Great Jigs: The Square Assembly Jig

    The Square Assembly JigThis is one of those projects I have always thought about, but never got around to building.  That was until I had to build a box that had mitered corners.  Trying to square those slippery joints and keep the joints aligned… well, that was tough.

    The square assembly jig couldn’t be any more simple.  I took a scrap sheet of 3/4″ MDF I had laying around the shop – about 2 x 3 feet.  I then took a scrap of 1/2″ cabinet grade birch plywood and ripped 1″ wide strips.  I made sure the scrap MDF was perfectly square, then I glued and bradded a double stack of the plywood strips to the table, again ensuring I was perfectly square.  I held the ‘junction’ of the two strips apart by about 1″, so I could see any miter joints I was gluing up.

    The Jig in ActionAfter I built this, I finished it with four coats of polyurethane to help prevent any glue from sticking to the jig.

    To use the jig, simply glue up the joint you want to build.  Then, you can clamp the piece to the plywood strips however you see fit.  Once the piece is glued up with the boards tight to the plywood fences, your assembly will be square.  Pretty clever…

    The best part of the jig is that you can use short clamps to grip the boards on small peices, or you can use the plywood fences as a contact point for larger bar clamps.

    A Reader’s Project: Church Library

    “Wow, wow and wow,” is all I had to say after I saw this job from Donnie Cherry, member Woodchuck21 at the Woodworker’s Website Association.  I’ll let Donnie describe how he made this gorgeous set of built-ins

    Library built in, pic 1

    The wood is poplar and a chestnut stain by Sherwin Williams called Sherwood.  I finished the pieces with a waterborne lacquer finish. I was a little skeptical of staining it at first, but I have to say that the poplar stained very well.  The stain evened out all of the different colors in the wood very nicely.

    I used 1/4″ poplar plywood for all the backs, and all doors and drawers have finger pulls. The corner cabinets have shelves in them too, but, I forgot to load them on the trailer that day…

    Library built in, pic 2

    From Sketchup to the finish room, it took about 5 weeks of shop time. Installation took about 10 hours with two helpers and myself.

    Donnie, my hat’s off to you. The work is tight and the stain really turned that inexpensive poplar into very rich looking wood. I especially like how you worked the library cabinets around the stained glass window.  Masterful!

    Library built in, pic 3

    If you have a project that you’d like to see featured on my blog, send me an e-mail at tom@tomsworkbench.com, and I’ll be sure to list it!