Tools I use: My biscuit jointer

What the heck is up at the workbench?  First, it’s dowels, then I’m talking about biscuits?  Where are the hand cut  mortise and tenons?  The expertly executed blind half-lap London-pattern dovetails?

OK, everybody, take a step back and inhale deeply, count to ten and then exhale slowly repeating, “Serenity Now.”  I still love my hand tools and cutting classic joints, and my biscuit jointer is relegated to a few limited but very important tasks.

First, lemme tell you about my biscuit jointer.  It is a Ryobi model that I picked up at Home Depot many moons ago – I believe sometime about 2000 or 2001. You see, Norm used one in just about every project he built, and that convinced me that if I was ever going to build woodworking projects, I was going to need one of my own.  I chose this model because it was dirt cheap – for $99, it was a steal. And, I used it for a lot of tasks when I started out.

Did it get good ratings in the woodworking mags?  Nope.  Has it served me well?  You bet.

I would attach shelves in bookcases with it. I would build cabinet boxes with it. I built this sweet little shoe bench that sits by the front door that allows us a place to stash the shoes when we come in and gives us a place to sit and put them on before we leave. I built it back in 2002, and it has held up for the past nine years with nary a complaint, and it’s still as rock-solid as the day I built it.

As my skills developed, my reliance on the biscuit jointer started to wane. I learned how to cut dadoes and rabbets.  I got my Kreg pocket hole jig setup. I started using more and more mortise and tenon joints.

Today, my biscuit jointer comes out from time to time to help reinforce miters, attach solid wood edges to plywood panels and it makes an appearance when I do panel glue ups.  Did I mention that I have issues when I glue up panels?

Now that I am entering the next phase of the project assembly – creating the actual shelves that will hold the books and span the distance between the two frames – I’ll be using the biscuit jointer to help keep my shelves on an even plane when I glue up the shelf boards. I had to stop to check my supply of biscuits and yes, I have enough to do the shelves.

All I need now is some quality shop time with my old friend and a stack of boards, and we’ll take another big step together toward project completion.

 

Gotta start moving

So, last week, I was on the horns of a dilemma. Debating on a joinery method for a set of bookshelves I’m building for a client.

And, I found myself in an all-too-familiar situation.  Paralysis by analysis.

Your comments to me were great.  Insightful. Profound. I should choose the joinery method that challenges me the most… I should choose a method that could last a thousand years.  And, as I frequently do, my mind started to race.  How could I cut a great joint that I had never done before… one that could impress my woodworking friends and the client?

And, before I knew it, it was five days later, and I hadn’t done squat to get this project done. And, then the client asked,” So, how’s the project going?”

Gulp. OK, then! I broke free from my navel gazing and decided on dowels to join the corners of the frames.. Fortunately, I had already drawn the piece out in full scale on paper, so cutting milling the pieces out and cutting to size was a piece of cake.  Well, I did really take my time to ensure I had the angles down on the front rail.  That did take some time. But, hey, I want this piece to be right.

Doweling with my Joint Genie is just as easy as I remembered.  The jig is a solid steel block with accurately spaced holes where you can drill a series of dowel holes in the wood so everything matches up perfectly when you go to assemble. The jig has spacer leafs on it, which allowed me to adjust the location of the jig to get the piece roughly centered. No, this isn’t a self-centering jig, so you will have to reference from adjoining faces of a board.  Remember this, or you may not like the results.  At all.

Three holes, drilled just over an inch deep into each mating face, and I was ready to slide over to the next location to cut the next joint. Each three-dowel joint held the three spiral dowels snugly in place, ready for glue and the mating piece.

Now, when you are assembling any joints, it pays to not be a block head. If you have the top and bottom pieces ‘capturing’ the front and back uprights, you can’t glue the back one in place, clamp it up and then try to squeeze it in there after the fact…  Don’t ask me how I know this…  But, a little work with some glue,  a mallet and a clamp or three, each of the side pieces glued up nicely and will be drying overnight.

The funny thing is that after this, the rest of the work is very straightforward.  Sand down the sides, cut the shelf dadoes, assemble sand and finish. I’m definitely going to have to pick out a few nights after work this week to push this one along… and stop thinking about it!

 

Quick Poll

When it comes to woodworking, properly securing wood while working on it can make your work safer and more accurate than having it flop around on the bench.

There are many ways to secure your work.  You can use a vise and bench dogs, some wedges, planing stops or clamps, but the classic tool are hold downs – heavy duty iron or steel rods with a bend in them that are hammered down into a bench dog hole and provide tremendous holding force.

This week, do you use hold fasts to hold your work at your bench?  If not, tell us how you do it.

Link of the week

Wood Magazine’s table saw tenoning jig review

If you want to cut a tenon, you could do the task with a backed hand saw, a dado stack or even a router bit.  And all of those ways are perfectly acceptable.  But, hey, you have a table saw (Well, most of us do, anyway) – why not consider a commercial tenoning jig?

Sure, you could build your own from scrap wood, but these babies are heavy, accurate and have a very quick clamping capacity.

This article by Wood Magazine shows you the ins and outs of the jig, how to set it up accurately and the best way to employ it in your own shop.  If you are considering taking the plunge, this article is a good place to get some pointers.

Don’t get your feathers ruffled

At my day job, I have given hundreds of hurricane and disaster preparedness talks. Big groups. Small groups. Companies, churches, neighborhood association meetings … you name it, I’ve gone there and spoken. For me, it’s all old hat now.

But, that hasn’t always been the case. When I first started out, I was told by my boss at the time that I needed to not run my talks free-form. Instead, I was encouraged to build a PowerPoint presentation, rehearse my material based on cues from what was on screen and NEVER deviate.

For my first few talks, this worked well. I never forgot a single point. I always put the emphasis on the key message I wanted to convey. I went from success to success, clutching tightly to the security blanket of my canned presentation.

Then, well, it had to happen. I went one place to talk, and blammo – no outlet was convenient for me to set up my projector and laptop, and I didn’t have access to an extension cord. Boy, did that ruffle my feathers.

The same thing happens when we are in the workshop. When we have our table saw tuned up and ready to make a cut, we become comfortable using the equipment. But, if you need to cut something on edge or try something a little out of our comfort range, it’s easy to get flustered – and worried – by the operation.

“That’s where feather boards come in,” said Dan Walter of Eagle America. “These simple jigs give you much more control – and confidence – over your operation.”

Feather boards are very useful jigs that help hold your work down to the table or against your fence to ensure a more accurate cut. And, they also can help prevent kickback, improving safety.

“The classic way to make a feather board is to fish a piece of scrap out of your wood stash, cut a series of parallel angled fingers and clamp it down to your saw,” said Dan. “And, you know, there is nothing wrong with that. It’s a cheap, practical shop solution.”

But, Dan also told me that commercial feather boards offer more versatility, are more durable and don’t take valuable shop time to make. Eagle America carries an extensive line of feather boards – each of which has special features.

“If you need feather boards for your cast iron topped table, band saw or other ferrous metal work surface, the Magswitch featherboards offer incredible convenience and flexibility.” Using a special magnet users can switch on and off, these feather boards can mount anywhere on the table, independent of the miter gauge slot.

Jessem’s Paralign models allow users to align them parallel to the work piece while they are clamped in the table. “In router tables, this is a very handy feature that allows you to skip all of the trial-and-error fidgeting to get the set up right.”

Milescraft’s dual slide motion feather boards feature large ergonomic handles for tightening them in place. “What a boon for people who may have limited hand strength. The ability to set these into place and know they will be rock solid helps ensure accuracy in cuts.”

Feather Bow’s offerings feature a traditional looking feather board finger design on one side and an innovative bow hold down on the other. Shaped somewhat like the leaf spring in a car, this focuses the pressure exactly where you need it without applying it across the entire length of the fingers. “These babies work very well on router or shaper tables where it’s critical to get proper bit or cutter contact to ensure a flawless shaping job.”

And, Kreg’s True Flex models not function as either a feather board or a stop block. “Their locking system also relies on a wedge to get a solid lock in a miter slot. That’s going to help ensure nothing slips when you are pushing the board past the blade or cutter.”

Dan also pointed out that many of these commercial feather boards can also be stacked together to give you control when resawing, cutting raised panels on a table saw or other functions. “I’m always surprised when a company comes out with a new and innovative feature on such an old power tool standby. There are some creative minds at work!”

My speech in front of that group sure threw me for a loop. But, it also taught me to look beyond just that one tool in my public speaking toolbox. Today, when I go out to talk, I know that I can adjust my presentation style to meet the needs of the specific group I’m addressing.

And, it allows me to stop obsessing over what could go wrong during the talks and start enjoying my time off in the shop a whole lot more.

 

On the horns of a dilemma

OK, so I’m getting ready to build this bookshelf project for a co-worker of mine, but I’m having a big time internal debate with myself. The design is fine, and the client is excited to get started on the project.

But, I am torn.  You see, I have been giving the joinery on the frames a lot of thought. You see, each side is going to be a four-sided frame that will be 18 inches wide at the bottom tapering to 12 inches at the top. There will be four pieces on each of the sides – a 90 degree back upright, two rails and an angled front stretcher. Each shelf unit will have two frames, and there are two bookshelf units in this build, making a total of 16 joints.

What I’m having trouble deciding is how to join these joints. I am trying to choose between a mortise and tenon joint and a dowel joint.

In this corner, there’s the mortise and tenon team. My plan – if I choose to go this route, is to cut mortises into the cross rails at the top and the bottom of the piece. I have a Prazi Chestmate jig with the special mortising template inserted, and I would need to use a plunge router with a 5/8″ guide bushing and a 3/8″ up spiral bit to plow the mortises. I would also need to cut tenons on both ends of the uprights – 90 degree tenons on both ends of the back rails and angled tenons on both ends of the front rails.  Probably using the nibbling technique on my table saw. I would cut them a little thick and plane them to final size with a shoulder plane to sneak up on the perfect fit.

Working in favor of the mortise and tenon is the tradition of the joint.  It’s a stout joint for this kind of application, giving lots of glue area. Against? Well, it’s a bit more complicated to do this kind of joint especially with the angled tenon to fit into the mortise. There’s also a bit of fussing to get the size of the tenon perfect – I have (on more occasions than I care to count) cut the tenon too thick to start, and then pushed it to too thin.  Grrr…..

In this corner is the dowel team. Here I would use my corded drill and my Joint Genie doweling jig to precisely drill for three 3/8 inch, 2 inch long spiral dowels per joint.  Bippity, boppity boo, and I’m done with all 16 joints in probably less than an hour.  Using this method, I could ignore the angles – drilling at 90 degrees to the edge of the top and bottom rails and 90 degrees to the mating surface of the uprights. The 3/8″ dowels would be the same width of the tenon I was planning on cutting.  It’s another traditional joint that I have seen used for some heavy-duty joinery by Norm Abram and James Krenov.

The downside of dowels I have heard time and again is that they aren’t a heavy-duty kind of joint. There have been some Wile E. Coyote-type tests done to demonstrate the strength of dowel joints vs. that of mortise and tenon joints.  The testers used strain meters, bathroom scales and other high-end technical tools to measure the failure point of each joinery method.  And, their results  – expressed in foot-pounds, newton-meters or some other measurement scale – show results that are all over the place.  Heck, the earliest I have seen this debate was back in an October 1979 edition of Popular Science, where they basically claimed that the two joints are at a dead heat.

While I’m making up my mind, I’d be interested in hearing what your thoughts are on the topic…

 

Quick Poll

Happy Father’s Day to the dads out there!

Now, first of all – a salute to us guys out there:

Now, for the matter at hand – spending time with your kids (Or someone else’s kid – maybe nieces, nephews, grandkids… the works) in the shop can be a great way to pique a kid’s interest in woodworking, and a great way to create some memories that will last a lifetime.

This week, tell us how frequently you let the kids work with you in your shop?  Is it an everyday kind of thing, or is it a rare treat?