Starting to think upgrade

I remember my first table saw. It was a Delta benchtop model that made all kinds of noise, had a 12 inch rip capacity and could barely hold a setting. I built some projects with it, and it was a definite step up from trying to cut everything with a circular saw.

My old Delta

Once I reached the capacity of that saw (which took no time at all), I stepped up to the saw I have – my Ridgid 3612.  It has been my trusty companion for the past 14 years, and we have built a ton of projects together. I’ve ripped and crosscut with it. Cut box joints. Dadoes and grooves. We’ve been inseparable, and it works well in my shop.

I’m beginning to wonder, however, if perhaps it might be time to upgrade the saw. There are some features of the saw that definitely mark it as dated. For instance, it has an old-style splitter instead of a riving knife. While I haven’t had a lot of issues with kickback, it has happened. I know that the new style riving knife design shortens the distance between the back edge of the blade and the splitter, reducing the likelihood that a kickback will happen. Plus, the fact that the riving knife rises and falls with the blade means that I can leave it in for non-through cuts (grooves and the like), meaning it will spend less time off the saw.

A traditional splitter

A riving knife

The newer saws also have shied away from the old-style open contractor style bases. My 3612 is wide open, and it took some wrangling to fit a dust chute onto the saw to control the dust that falls out from the cuts. The motor also sits out of the back, leaving a gaping hole where dust can still pour out from.  Newer designs – known as hybrid saws – have enclosed cabinets and much better dust collection, meaning less vacuuming after a session with the saw. Plus, with the motor inside the footprint of the saw’s cabinet, I can wheel the saw closer to my bench to serve as an outfeed table.

The back of a hybrid saw

So, I’m looking. The saw will definitely have to have a mobile base – that’s non-negotiable. And, it has to be able to spin a dado stack, which eliminates many of the portable jobsite saws. I also don’t think I need to go to 220 volts for the saw. That would make for a pretty expensive wiring job, and I have been managing with a 110 volt model for the past 14 years with few issues.

The Ridgid 4512

Honestly, I am looking very closely at another Ridgid saw. The current offering, the R4512, is a hybrid model complete with a mobile base, excellent dust collection and some very good reviews. However, I have looked at a few other models. I’m not sure where this is going to take me, or if I will even pull the trigger after doing a more thorough evaluation, but I will certainly be doing my homework on this one.

After all, I plan on getting at least another 14 years out of this sucker!

6 thoughts on “Starting to think upgrade”

  1. Last year I replaced my Ridgid 3650 with the 4512 that you mentioned. I am satisfied with the saw, for the price it can’t be beat. But it feels more like a replacement rather than an upgrade. The riving knife was the mail selling feature, the dust chute was an improvement and the mobile base (which the 3650 had) is great – such low rolling resistance. I do miss the rip capacity (old was 36″ and new is 30″). I was really impressed that the saw was calibrated straight out of the box. Assemble was straightforward. My other complaint about the 4512 is the stamped steel wings. I miss the cast iron on the old saw. Of course, they can be upgraded in your shop.
    Given the same budged I would buy the 4512 again. With a bit more in the budget I would probably get the Grizzly G0715P.
    A final note. Leecraft makes a nice zero clearance insert for the new Ridgid saw. Works great.

  2. Price I am sure is a factor. But if this is the saw for the next 15 years or your life time, think about SawStop.

    Professional, 1.75hp, great fence, mobile base. $2700

  3. In UK Jet do some nice cabinet saws that cover just about everything.. including a sliding table with attachment to cut sheets. I have a tiny wee shop in Scotland and it’s proven to be worth the extra over a contract type saw. Euro riving knife is standard as is the lack of Dado support. As much as I need the space I wouldn’t swap for a contract saw now.. although I would jump at a sawstop if they ever appear across the pond

  4. I’ve been considering a new table saw and while I’m not ready to “pull the trigger” I have been giving serious consideration to a SawStop. One big factor for me is my kids have been showing an interest in woodworking or at least what I’m doing out in the garage. They’re too young for power tools, but when they do reach the stage that I’m ready to let them work with the table saw, that extra protection the SawStop provides would be part of my comfort zone in taking that step.

    How my dad and I survived my learning to crosscut and rip using a radial arm saw, I’ll never know.

  5. I have been fighting with a older Shopsmith for over 10 years. EVERYTIME !! I have to make a cut, I have to adjust the fence alignment. The unit has served me well thou. My workspace is fairly small and having all the attachments. it has worked. I will pull the trigger someday and get a new table saw, drill press and band saw. Unitl then I will have to sign up for all the free giveaways.

  6. My next saw will be a SawStop, no question. Question for me is will it be 1.75HP or 3HP. My 20 year old Grizzly is a 1.5HP and even with a thin kerf Woodworker II blade it’s having a hard time getting through 8/4 hardwood (like hard maple, purpleheart and jatoba).

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